Tutorial
Craig Mullins: Revising Golongrias Picture
03/25/02 @954 | Arno | comments (17)
Ok this time I will describe how I took someone else's drawing and developed it a little further. The original image here was done by Golongria and it struck me as something that had potential. The hair and pose overlooking the ocean were appealing to me: the image told a story.

My first idea was to lower the eye level so the viewer is more on the same level as the character. This allows us to see into the distance as I imagine the character to be doing. The eye level in the original pic is much too low. If we accept the viewer as looking down on this plane, the horizon would be well off the top of the picture. Also, the silhouette becomes much stronger because the contrast between the figure and the background is higher. There is also contrast in materials, as the textural ground and figure contrast with the relative flatness of the sky. If I had kept the original higher eye level the horizon would have been lost off the top of the picture.


Tarzan by Craig Mullins

I did a rough line sketch in a mask channel and then put a flat color in the background and a flat color in the foreground on a separate layer. This way I could add and subtract from the silhouette easily. I find that this additive and subtractive approach is very helpful in giving variety to your shapes, and can be used not only in drawing outlines, but in general painting as well. But down a big shape, and cut away at it.

The first rule- get rid of the white of the paper fast and work out the big areas as soon as you can. Beginners (I did this too!) like to start at one corner and finish as they march across the image. Don't think of things as objects that need to be separated logically. What would you really see? Look at the leg and ground- the edge is lost where they share the same value and color. This is another mistake beginning painters make- edges and boundaries where the eye would see none. I see it a lot in 3-d work as well.

At night look at some trees where they meet the sky. Because the light level is low, the edge is softer than it would be in the daytime. The eye has a harder time differentiating two values in lower light. So in the shadow side of an object, the edges tend to be a little softer. This is probably the most important determining factor of edge quality. Look at a good head painting: the shadow side has softer transitions. The softest edges area probably where the hair meets the background in shadow. In places you might loose that edge entirely! Most beginners think "there's the hair, and there is the background, there has to be a separation there somewhere." This is where painting from life would help. I did this image from my head, but I could not have without a lot of life drawing and painting.

There are other considerations about edges as well. There is a hierarchy of edges in every image. You play up the sharpness of some edges and some fall away. Yes it is a matter of contrast, but also a matter of manipulating the viewer, and part describing materials. The spear is sharp and precisely drawn: this by contrast gives the figure a softer appearance, feeling more like flesh. The hair is softer still. If you were rendering a face, you could play up the differences between hair, soft fatty tissue, bonier areas, metal implants, etc.

Another consideration is to play up the difference between form and cast shadows. Since the lighting is diffuse, or from a large source, as opposed to a point source, this is not really an issue, and if you don't know what I am talking about, we will get to that subject in a later column!

In many Frazetta paintings the feeling of action and tension is accentuated by hiding the far arm or leg behind the body. This is good example of what is left out is more effective than what is included.

Also in the interest of simplicity I only included the most important landmarks of the body, the rib cage and then the arm and shoulder on top of that. The body bends below the ribcage. The weight of the body is being transferred through the shoulder to the arm and out to the hand on the spear. This is causing the arm and shoulder to ride up and around the ribcage. It is important to show this to give the body a feeling of weight, and in this case, a feeling of fatigue.That the hair is stringy and matted also helps here.

I work a lot with silhouettes and if you look at the figure and the ground, they function together as one. I saw the body emerging out of the ground as one shape, and as you can see the edge between the leg and the ground is totally lost.

I had originally planned to play up the texture in the body to contrast with the flatness of the sky, but I ran out of time (I loose interest when the problem is solved in my head, or in this case, about an hour). The hazy sky is like a summer afternoon thunderstorm, with the humidity in the air exaggerating the atmospheric perspective. This gives the feeling of a large open space, and makes the figure seem more alone in a large universe. I will talk more about atmospheric perspective in a later column. The ocean in the lower right is out of focus, which is actually an error, but it didn't bother my eye too much. Those rocks are a lot closer than the sharp edge of the clouds in the upper left, and they should both be in focus. I don't play with depth of field much, as it is a characteristic of bad model photography or bad lighting that requires the lens of a camera to be opened up for a given film speed. There are much better ways to show depth.

The low level of lighting dictates a similarity in the basic color and contrast of materials. The wooden shaft of the spear, the metallic head, skin, hair etc. are all the same color and value, or nearly. As I said before, I did differentiate them with edge quality, but if there was more light on the subject, you would see large differences in the treatment of materials. The edges would also sharpen up as well. That's about it for now, I know this is a sketchy pic to gab about this much, but I hope you have gotten something out of this ramble. I will have a plan in the future and keep each column to a specific subject, and not all over the map as I have done here. Maybe with that degree of focus I can communicate better.

I have to find my audience here, I am not sure that people understand what I am talking about always, so let's have some feedback if people feel I am too technical or to simple. What would people like to hear? Technical stuff or drawing and painting stuff? If you know me, you know I have an opinion on that one :)

Craig Mullins  / www.goodbrush.com

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Member comments
TJVerhagen

 03/28/02 @082

Im really interrested in the painting aspect of Photoshop (btw, really looking forward to PS 7)
Drawing is my life, primairily sketching. Im still trying to figure out how to make a good color job of them).
I've always liked Craigs work.. its just amazing.

Although in his explanations I sometimes wish he'd show more of the steps between... as I sometimes find myself trying to figure out what he means at certain steps.
Hmm maybe I'm just spoiled.

Anyway.... God this art rocks!!!;)
 
frog

 03/29/02 @440

Great ramble really, personally I prefer the theoretical stuff to the step by step approach because it addresses fundamentals rather than techniques and ultimately has more to teach.

I would much rather read about your thought processes when painting rather than a dry description of how you went about it. Besides technical tutorials aren't always that useful since there are many different ways of going about the same thing - especially in digital art - so your methods will be different to the other guy's but it doesn't really affect the fundamental principles. The other good thing is that it can then be translated into any software, you don't even mention the word photoshop.

I had no trouble following your post, but I already know a bit about art, 3d and photography, a beginner might struggle with parts of it I think. I really look forward to future posts devoted to one theme or topic, I think that's a great idea. You could go into quite a lot of depth on whatever subject with maybe a little time to explain things for novices.

thanks for sharing.


 
gargoyle

 04/10/02 @750

Thanks for this awesome tutorial. The onnnnly thing missing would be some work in progress pictures so we can see how you work too.. if you dont mind :)

Thanks again mon!
 
scribble

 05/12/02 @725

I think it depends much on the skill level of the reader. For a beginner like i am it would be more helpfully with step-by-step explenations and progress pictures. Tutorial-Readers likes Eye-Candy :) But this is another interesting kind of tutorial and helpful anyway! Thank you!
 
keredleung

 06/10/02 @402

First thanks your sharing.
Same as above ppl advise.
It's better to have Step-by-step tutorial with images. Beacause only word is boring.(1) i like your anlayst of image before painting. u can talk more here. (2) i cant follow the tutorial usually coz there are may be too many technical word. Pls make some note for technical word.
 
keredleung

 06/10/02 @434

Craig Mullins!! A cool concept artist!!!
i am your fans. Could you open a new topic to talk about concept art. How to make painting "realistic"?
looking for your new tutorial.
Thank you.
 
nerthus

 01/21/03 @764

To continue the discussion of the above threads, I think there should be a bit of both in a good tutorial. First the thought process and then the execution process where the artists shows how he brought his toughts onto the "canvas". I havent really found a good tutorial combining both of the elements. I think this tutorial is great, but the way it is presented is bad. To much word and no illustrations of what you mean can end in the reader being more confused than enlightend. So, add some images to show what you mean and I think your contribution will stick more into the readers mind ;)
 
Daitoo

 01/26/03 @049

I agree with Frog. The way you are doing it is very interesting.
Thanks and keep on doing.
 
Mooninightus

 03/16/03 @000

I'm with frog and Daitoo......although progression pics wouldn't hurt. I can illustrate fine, though I have much to learn in the way of entire compositions, this tutorial I found to be very enlightening.
 
Feycat

 03/20/03 @172

I, sadly, mangle stick figures and couldn't produce art if i was impregnated by M.C.Escher but I do appreciate the step by step help. That really is an amazing step between the two pictures. Thank you and bless.
 
alecamargo

 11/06/03 @846

Always amazing Carig!!! Though for a bad artist like me I kinda NEED to see things to understand XD Seriously, an image tells more than thousand words But your words were very instructive too!! Love your tutorials and art *o*
 
illustr8r

 11/22/03 @106

Excellent work!
Thanks for the tutorials. I'm sure we would all love to see more if you have the time.
 
creativesouls

 05/06/04 @531

Outstanding art........ hey.... do u have any tutorial on how to create that perfect image? email me: soultransparent@yahoo.com
 
thegoodwar

 12/01/04 @443

Hello
i have to say this is the most interesting tutorial i have read to date . i completely understood everything so don't worry about that. often tutorials stick to the use of specific tools it is fantastic to see your thought process . Not to seem offensive to anyone but i am tired of seeing tutorials that only go skin deep
i would like to the next column based on
loss of informantion in film(value color contrast)
color and saturation shifts surrounding over exposured film
general rules of thumb pertaining to adding color and material diversity to an object but still making it seem as a whole
color shifts in the sky would be pretty interesting
how to create large amounts of garbage in the street/cityscapes ( do you make random splotched of paint that would fit in the scene, because of their value and saturation, and then pick out and refine objects from there?)
i would like to hear more about edge control techique but more so in terms of representing natural light
or if you could write a few comments about any more common mistakes people tend to make that makes thier lighting less than realistic
when making a detailed painting like the matte paintings created for final fantasy do you seperate layers for volumetric lighting and geometric details such as the buildings? i am asking because it seems like the volumetric/fog/atmospheric lighting is completly uninterupted in the city at dusk matte painting
perhaps the process behind ring3.jpg would be excellent
do you think any of the photoshop brush modes(like color dodge or soft light) accuractly emulate real lighting effects
thank you for taking the time to write these columns they definately mean alot me , becoming a matte painter is a distant dream for me my closest effort yet turned out like this painting

i would love to hear any comments about it
 
mattgamer

 06/22/06 @189

Love the tut, thank you Craig. :)
 
kadath

 09/04/06 @387

Craig Mullins for president!
 
artboosi

 01/20/07 @363

hey man :) tanks
 
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